Sapa, Vietnam

After a few days in Hanoi we headed to the mountain village of Sapa.  Sapa is known for its beautiful scenery, trekking, and diverse culture of several different Hmong and Red Dao tribes.  From Hanoi we took a 5 1/2 hour road trip in a cozy 9 seater van.  The first 4 1/2 hours were enjoyable looking at the incredible mountainous scenery and country side of Vietnam.  The highway was recently built and oddly enough not very many cars on it. The last hour was an experience in itself as I shockingly watched the driver pass semi after semi on blind hair pin corners as we climbed the mountain.  It didn't seem to bother Paul (no surprise) as he gazed out the window on his side enjoying the scenery of a sheer cliff.   At one point I did a Google search to see how long it would take me to walk.  Next time I'm taking a flask....or better yet the train.
We had arranged to meet our local guide in the city center.  Her name was Su Linh.  She came highly recommended on TripAdvisor.  She was there waiting with her husband who transported our packs via motorcycle to our home stay in their village.  We walked. As we started our Trek out of the town of Sapa, 2 additional Hmong women joined us.  Su Linh explained that they would join us on the Trek back to their village as they had spent the day in Sapa selling their handmade items.  (Kas)

There goes everything we have in our packs...on the back of a bike.  

The pics can't even begin to capture how beautiful it is!  These are rice terraces

Our first rest stop

Lots of pigs and buffalo on the route

Su Linh(far right) was the only one that spoke English. The Hmong are not Vietnamese.  They are a different ethnicity with their own language and culture.  

Along the way we learned some fascinating things about Su Linh.  She was married at 16 which is common in her culture.  She is now 23 and has 2 children.  She started working with a trekking company 6 years ago but recently she decided to leave the company and organize her own treks.The tour companies pay the Hmong guides very little for their hard work.   With the help of a tourist that saw Su Linh's potential, she now has a Facebook page and a big following on Trip Advisor.  The most amazing thing is that Su Linh doesn't read or write and has never been to school. There were times when we were with her that she got text messages or emails from potential customers and she would have me read them to her and respond back.  She taught herself how to speak English.  She employs several of her family members as guides.  She now owns her own business!

The Black Hmong use Indigo plant to create Indigo Dye.  These clothes were drying after being dyed.  

I felt like a Giant!  

We were fortunate enough to arrive during rice harvest season which happens only once a year.  This is an important time of year as this is each family's food supply for the whole year.  Every family member participates in harvesting the rice crop.

After the rice is harvested the rest is dried and used for animals or used for roofing in homes. 

Not OSHA approved!  It was a long drop to the river below.  

We stopped off at Su Linh's grandparents' shop.  This is the loom that weaves the hemp for clothing.

milling the corn 

 Garments that her grandparents make.  They weave the hemp, dye the material from the Indigo plant and make the design all in this little shop.   

Finally arriving at our homestay.  This is Su Linh's aunt Mae on the left.  Since Su Linh lives in a 1 room home, her aunt houses the visitors for homestays. Paul and I were the only visitors for our stay.   The family was busy drying the rice when we arrived. 

Su Linh's grandmother (76 years old) scooped all the piles of rice into bags.  

After getting settled into Auntie Mae's house, our hiking partners wanted to show us their wares....and yes we bought some beautiful  stitched purses.  

Aunt Mae and Su Linh preparing our dinner 

Su Linh and her 2 boys

The locals walk and guide people through the mountains in these plastic sandals.  Amazing!  Su Lin has been trekking in these daily for several months.  

one of Aunt Mae's 5 children

Su Linh, her husband and children 

The delicious feast they prepared for us.  

After dinner the "happy water" was brought out.  It's rice wine.....100% grain Alcohol

cheers!

Grandpa stopped by for some happy water.  He has 3 shots every morning and several after dinner.  

The next morning as we were out on the front porch having coffee we watched the village folks heading off for the day

These 2 walked by and I had to get their picture.  My favorite so far!  

Aunt Mae's home had no bedrooms.  Our sleeping area was in the living room separated by blankets.  It was perfect after a long exhausting day.  

everyone helps with the rice

the kitchen sink in Aunt Maes home.

These women amazed us with what they carried and how far they went.  Such hard workers.  

Market in Aunt Maes village.   Most of the homes don't have refrigeration.  They typically go to the market a couple times a day.

This young boy looked about 6.  

Our second and third day of trekking we had Su Lin's sister-in-law, Si, as our guide

In the Black Hmong culture the women work outside the home and the men stay at home taking care of the children and home chores. The women seem to be the innovators.  They trek to the bigger towns daily attempting to sell their hand crafted items or food they prepare.  If they speak English they can become trekking guides.  Many of the Hmong men don't speak Vietnamese which is a necessity to work outside their village.  

We trekked to Su Lin's village.  This is her husband doing the laundry. 

Their home was a 1 room wood hut.  They cook their meals on this open fire

The oustide of their home.  

Following Si up and over the mountain.  

We frequently came upon families harvesting their rice

Mothers carry their babies until about 1.5 years of age on their backs while they work. The comb in this girls hair signifies she is married.  They don't have wedding rings.  

Corn crop on the side of the mountain  

 Down the mountain following Si.  

on the 3rd day we hiked to Cat Cat village where the Black Hmong tribe were showing some traditional dances

 Worms from bamboo. Apparently a tasty snack.   Nope,we didn't try.  

back to Sapa Town

view from our hotel room porch  

what $12 a night gets you in Sapa.  

 We wash our clothes in our hotel rooms along the way.  Our patio here was perfect for laundry day.  The weather up in the mountains of Sapa is so much cooler than Hanoi.

roof garden

Getting the opportunity to see first hand and learn how the Hmong live in Northern Vietnam was an incredible experience for us.  One that we will never forget!