Wednesday, October 19, 2016

Hue and Hoi An (Central Vietnam)

As promised in the last posting, we took the train (instead of the bus) from Ninh Binh (ning bing) to Hue (whey) on the evening of 7 October.  It was an eleven-hour, overnight trip where we splurged and opted for a sleeper car for about $30 each.  A much more pleasant trip than taking the bus.  Hue is just south of the former border (Demilitarized Zone) that separated North Vietnam from South Vietnam during the Vietnam War. 




Hue was the capital of Nguyen Dynasty from 1802 to 1945.  It's major attraction is the citadel with its stone walls, moat, and ornate buildings.
Giant moat surrounding the citadel.





Retro-band from the Nguyen Dynasty.


At first we thought these young people were trying to sell us something, but it turns out they just want to practice their English.  This young man is studying to become a doctor at the medical school in Hue.


The markets in Vietnam are something you have to see to believe. They seem to go on forever with the same items. I don't know what "siesta" is in Vietnamese, but these shop workers put in some long days. So, a little snooze mid-day keeps them going.
 Of course, the best food is found in the streets or in the markets. Much cheaper than the restaurants.   And they won't take no for an answer.  Once you get over the initial fear of having no idea what you are eating, it seems to always taste very good.
 Notice how many "meat on a stick" are in the bowl.  I asked for one beef and one chicken.  By the time I was done, I must have had at least four of each.

Commonly called Pho in different countries, we've found several subtle local variations that have different names.  I'm very suspicious that they are just picking some weeds in the alley so they can laugh at the gringo who will eat anything.
On 10 October we rented a scooter in Hue and rode it about 80 miles to Hoi An.  The total bill for renting a bike (one-way) and transporting our bags was $29.


Along the way we took a side-trip to Elephant Falls where we found clear mountain water that was actually clear, cold and refreshing.
You just never know what you're going to see.  This is a pig watering/cooling station alongside the road. There are hoses angled upward so the trucks just pull in and water the pigs.
We climbed up and over the Hai Van Pass.  
 From there we had some spectacular views of the Vietnam coast.
 We passed through Da Nang which has a lot of beach front.
Also in Da Nang there is a large number of resorts being built that are quite impressive.  We immediately noticed a big difference once we reached the southern half of Vietnam.  Much more modern.
 Hoi An is a very popular tourist stop that turns out to be fairly unique and very beautiful.

 We found this coffee shop that roasts quality coffee.
 Most streets are filled with cloth lanterns.
 Hoi An has the most aggressive sales people you can imagine. Kassie just wanted to take this picture, but before could escape she had to buy a piece of fruit for a dollar.
Kassie had four dresses made in an afternoon.
There are countless (OK, only hundreds of) tailor shops in Hoi An.  If you want a custom-made suit (or anything else) made, this town is the place to go.







 One day we even rented bicycles (instead of a scooter).

"Old Town Hoi An, the city's historic district, is recognized as an exceptionally well-preserved example of a South-East Asian trading port dating from the 15th to the 19th century, its buildings and street plan reflecting a unique blend of influences, indigenous and foreign." (Wikipedia)
Lanterns at night
We happened to be in this region during the low tourist season.  So, hardly anyone was at the beach.
Of course, different city means different beer.

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