Friday, November 25, 2016

Siem Reap, Cambodia

On 26 October, we returned to Phnom Penh, by bus, because we didn't have any other options.  However, after Kassie's scolding, the bus company made sure they gave us their most cautious driver. The trip was uneventful, like it should be.  The next day we flew to Siem Reap and hired a tuk tuk driver to take us around to countless ancient temples of the Angkor Empire mostly built between the 11th and 13th centuries.  I can't even begin to describe the magnitude of these Hindu and Buddhist temples that are engineering marvels even by today's standards.  There are several documentaries on YouTube and elsewhere that describe the construction of these temples and extensive waterways of this ancient civilization.  

The history of the area is literally carved in stone in very intricate detail.
Angkor Wat is the largest religious monument in the world built by the Khmer King Suryavarman II and occupies 402 acres.
Considering the fact that this thing is still standing straight up and down almost 900 years later in the middle of a swamp, is an example of what I mean by "engineering marvel". 

The sand stones are fit so perfectly together that you cannot even slide a thin piece of paper between them.  This allowed them to make these intricate carvings across multiple bricks.  You can barely see that this carving was made across two giant bricks.

The giant sandstone bricks were cut out of a mountain almost 30 miles away and hauled on rafts downstream to the construction site.
Monks have had a presence at Angkor Wat throughout its history.

I'm not even going to guess which of the more than 1,000 temples we took this picture in.


Left untouched by man for hundreds of years, the jungle reclaimed the real estate.
See what eventually happens when you let those cute little trees grow in your rain gutters.




Angelina Jolie starred in the 2001 movie, "Tomb Raider" filmed in several of the temples of Angkor.


Competition is fierce in town to get tourist business after a long day of looking at temples.





Fortunately, there are enough expats around to offer alternatives to the dreadful instant coffee found throughout SE Asia.
More stairs, of course.

Kassie loves elephants!  Hopefully, our homeowners association specifically forbids having them as pets.

Sunday, November 20, 2016

Kampot and Kep, Cambodia

On 22 October we took a bus to the Cambodian coast to the south. Unfortunately, taking a bus was the only way to get there.  So, we researched and found a company with the best reputation and went with it.  Of course, we still got a crazy bus driver that drove like we tourists were in some sort of hurry.  It was a two-lane highway packed with scooters and reasonably moving vehicles which our driver felt compelled to pass without exception.  One hand on the horn and the other on the steering wheel or messing with his cell phone.  We were constantly passing with oncoming traffic forced to move over to get out of our way.  After three hours of this it started to rain and get dark just as we arrived in the town of Kampot.  We were still driving too fast for conditions when I looked up just in time to see a man standing in the middle of the street about one second before we hit him with the right front edge of our bus.  The bus full of western tourists, all of us yelled for the bus driver to STOP THE BUS, which he did not.  The bus station was only a few hundred meters away where we stopped and the bus driver took off. We pleaded unsuccessfully to get someone at the bus station to drive the bus back to the scene.  A couple of expats that lived there jumped into a tuk tuk and went back to the accident scene to check on the guy we had hit.  In the meantime Kassie was on the cell phone to the bus company manager demanding he send an ambulance (or police) and take the guy to the hospital. The whole lack of a sense of urgency was infuriating.  Kassie and I then took a tuk tuk back to the accident scene and by that time the police had loaded him into the back of their pickup.  The man was bleeding from his head, but still conscious.  Again, no sense of urgency to get him to the hospital.  We followed up the next day to ensure the bus company was taking care of the guy in the hospital and the manager showed us video of the man being properly cared for which was reassuring.  It turns out the man is homeless without any family in the town and has a reputation of being a problem 

Fortunately, when we reached our guest house late after the accident, the owner had an incredible dinner waiting for us, family style.  With self-serve beer on tap, of course.  Another great international group with Australia, Ireland, Germany, and America represented.
Time for the beard to go!
One way to get rid of gray is to shave it off.
We were told "happy pizza" contains "herbs" recently legalized in a few western US states.

This is a salt farm in Kampot.

Our tuk tuk driver, Mr. Ranny doubled as a tour guide.
Climbing more stairs to find another jungle-bound temple followed by our impromptu tour guide that didn't speak any English. We tipped him just the same.
A deep cave that Kassie wouldn't enter.  And she was afraid our impromptu tour guide might push me off a cliff into the abyss.  I escaped without incident.
This Russian backpacker volunteered at a pepper farm for a few weeks. He demonstrated this parabolic mirror by catching a stick on fire at the focul point.  Cool!
We had never really given any thought to where black pepper comes from even though it's on every dinner table in America.
If you didn't either, now you do.  Kampot pepper is famous.  And here I've been taking black pepper for granted all this time.
Green rice fields everywhere.
Pepper plants need a little shade.
Crab pots right outside the restaurants in Kep.
As usual, we had the restaurant to ourselves and they even let us play our own music over their sound system.
Another interesting giant tree suitable for Tarzan.
There are normal gas stations, but these are more interesting.
Apparently, we weren't the only ones that hadn't heard what a fantastic destination Kep, Cambodia is.

We had this lush garden resort to ourselves for $25 a night including breakfast for two.
Oh, and some more bright green rice fields in case you didn't get an idea of how beautiful it is there.